Valtellina food: What to eat when in Livigno

There are two different ways of approaching the history and culture of a place, either through history books or by experiencing it firsthand. Food is a way of getting to know about a culture and its history by doing the latter. In fact, it is often said that food is the best and easiest way of understanding a culture. 

Livigno, a small commune located in Valtellina region near the Swiss border, is one such place which has preserved its age-old history in its cuisine. A well-known holiday resort famous as a skiing destination, Livigno is a complete holiday destination providing ample opportunities to relax, engage and explore. The local cuisine of the place is a result of its rich cultural heritage and provides a quick glimpse into the way life in this rather difficult landscape has evolved over the centuries. 

The restaurants in Livigno generally serve a variety of local dishes which have been shaped by the farming history and flavours found in the valley. Because of the high altitude and a short summer season, dairy products such as cheese and butter have become one of the main ingredients of its cuisine, with Livigno locals priding themselves on their own traditional dairy like fresh milk and yogurt available here. 

What is Valtellina famous for? 

Beyond its alpine scenery, winter sports and adventure tourism, the Valtellina region is better known for its local cuisine. Let’s see what foods and dishes you must try when there!  

Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese 

Dig in a hearty dish after skiing, the Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese 

The most famous among the local dishes and a must try is Pizzoccheri, pasta ribbons made from buckwheat. The dish is special and unique to the Valtellina region because of the ingredients which are easily available here. Originating in the mid-1700s, these noodles are traditionally paired with potatoes, Savoy cabbage, Valtellina Casera cheese (DOP), butter, garlic, and sage. It's crucial not to mistake them for Chiavenna Pizzoccheri, a distinct type of gnocchi from Lombardy. 

Bitto cheese 

The scrumptious slice of the famous Bitto cheese from Valtellina 

The most famous among the variety of cheeses produced here is Bitto cheese, a special mountain cheese which is produced during the summer. Named after the Bitto river, this cheese variety is exclusively produced during the summer months and has a slightly spicy and intense flavor, with a firm texture that makes it suitable for grating.  

Casera cheese 

Casera cheese, a key ingredient for Sciatt and Pizzoccheri 

Named after the 'casere' or stone structures where the wheels mature, Casera cheese boasts a sweeter and more delicate flavor profile. Infused with the fragrant essence of mountain herbs, this versatile cheese is a key ingredient in various Northern Italian dishes like Sciatt and Pizzoccheri, as mentioned earlier. Nevertheless, both varieties are equally delightful when thinly sliced and paired with local bread. 

Sciatt 

The crunchy and tasty Sciatt, typical Valtellina food 

The Sciatt (or “frog” in local dialect) is a unique Valtellinese specialty from Teglio, named after its irregular frog-like shape. These fritters have a crispy exterior and a gooey center made with local cheeses like Valtellina Casera or Bitto. Originally a breakfast item, Sciatt can now be enjoyed any time of day, often served as a delightful appetizer with a side of green chicory-radicchio salad. 

Polenta taragna 

Gorge on a plate of “cheesy” polenta taragna 

Polenta Taragna is another buckwheat dish eaten as the main course prepared with cornmeal and a lot of cheese. A hearty and satisfying dish, it is a staple on chilly days which is enjoyed not only in the upper Valtellina but also in Brescia County and Bergamo valleys. The dish features a base of "black flour" polenta, a blend of 100% buckwheat and yellow corn flour and can be enjoyed alone or paired with locally cured cold cuts, mushrooms, or meat/game. The name "taragna" originates from the stick ("tarai") used to turn the polenta, preventing it from sticking during the cooking process. 

Bresaola della Valtellina 

The mouth-watering Bresaola served with lemon and cheese 

The delicious Bresaola, which gives a glimpse into the long tradition of cold cuts in the region, is also eaten as an appetizer. Served in various manners, it is always presented in exceptionally thin slices. Enjoy it with a touch of lemon juice and olive oil, or savor its exquisite pairing with prosciutto 'Lardo,' finely sliced lard cured with salt, black pepper, rosemary, and garlic. Alternatively, indulge in its combination with porcini mushrooms in olive oil (Bresaola e porcini) or alongside a generous portion of Ricotta d’Alpe, a fresh alpine ricotta. 

Bresaola is also served with Taroz, which is a tasty puree of potatoes, beans, cheese and butter. Several locally sourced herbs also form an important part of the local cuisine and contribute to its unique taste. 

Tzigoiner 

Tzigoiner, also known as Zigeuner, features thinly sliced beef wrapped around a wooden skewer, marinated in wine, oil, and spices, and grilled to perfection. The seasoned meat is grilled over high heat, resulting in succulent slices that easily slide off the skewer. Typically served with french fries, Tzigoiner is accompanied by dollops of mustard and grated horseradish.  

Salmì di cervo  

Salmì di cervo is a traditional dish from the Valtellina valley, usually made with venison, red wine, pancetta, vegetables, and an array of herbs and spices. The meat is marinated in wine with spices, then browned with sautéed pancetta. Nutmeg, cloves, and salt are added, and the drained marinade vegetables are cooked into a sauce. The dish is served hot, often accompanied by polenta.  

Manfrigole 

The delicious Manfrigole, stuffed with ham and cheese 

Manfrigole, or Manfrigoli, are thin crêpes from the upper Valtellina region, crafted with a blend of buckwheat and wheat flour. Once cooked, they are filled with a mixture of cheese, bresaola, and soaked stale bread, often made with rye bread. The filled crêpes are rolled and sliced into two or three cylinders, then placed in a baking dish. They are garnished with cubes of Casera cheese, curls of butter, and baked in a hot oven for 3 to 5 minutes until the cheese melts, achieving a deep golden bubbly finish. This dish serves as a hearty appetizer, perfect for colder days, best enjoyed straight from the oven. 

Valtellina Superiore 

Typical Valtellina “aperitivo” served with Valtellina Superiore red wine 

To complement the aforementioned dishes, you'll want to pair them with exceptional wines. The valley is renowned for 'Valtellina Superiore,' holding full DOCG status. This crimson-hued wine carries an unmistakable aroma of cherry and rose. Crafted from the Nebbiolo grape variety, it adheres to stringent growing conditions, resulting in a wine of exceptional quality. 

Bisciola 

Bisciola, traditional Valtellina valley nuts and figs bread for Christmas 

Bisciola is a circular sweet bread, reminiscent of panettone, and is filled with raisins and dried fruit. Its texture is akin to that of the traditional Christmas cake. It shares similarities with both panettone and pandoro, two iconic Italian holiday desserts. 

Biscotin de Prost 

Biscotin de Prost is a traditional cookie from Valtellina, specifically associated with the Del Curto family. The recipe involves a mix of flour, sugar, and ample butter. The dough is kneaded, refrigerated, cut into rounds, and baked until golden. Typically served in traditional restaurants in the region, these buttery cookies are enjoyed as a delightful conclusion to a meal. 

Taneda   

Taneda is a bitter liqueur crafted from local yarrow leaves, renowned for its digestive properties. Typically served at the conclusion of a meal, it has become celebrated for its distinctive flavor and traditional use. 

Bràulio or Brolio 

Brolio is a digestive bitter crafted from a blend of medicinal herbs, fruits, roots, and berries harvested from the slopes of the Braulio valley, at least in its original form. The recipe remains a closely guarded secret, revealing only four known ingredients: yarrow, wormwood (assenzio), juniper berries, and gentian roots. 

Livigno offers a delightful variety of dishes which is unique to the region and a happy change from the commonly available Italian dishes. These dishes are worth trying and some of them such as the cold cuts and cheese can be packed and taken home too subject to import regulations there. But what you can take home from here are unforgettable memories and a bagful of new experiences, which we have rounded up below! Book with us!

 Sit down for an apres-ski session at a traditional Alpine restaurant in Livigno 

Best restaurants in Livigno 

Ristorante La Calcheira  

Just minutes away from the city center, this distinctive mountain construction boasts wooden interiors from walls to floors and furnishings. In this Trattoria it is possible to savor genuinely crafted traditional cuisine, featuring dishes such as deer ragù tagliolini, pizzoccheri, oven-baked pork shank, and sausage with polenta. A delectable conclusion awaits with apple fritters or a slice of homemade tart. The cellar is stocked predominantly with local wines. 

Contacts: Calcheira – via Fedaira, 61/A – +39 0342 970503

Ristorante Camana Veglia 

A destination cherished by fine dining enthusiasts, gourmands, and connoisseurs, Camana Veglia in Livigno has been a hub since 1972. A restaurant that doubles as a small museum, its interiors dating back to the early 1900s and originating from old Livigno huts. Particularly unique is the "Stua Mata," where dining transforms into a genuine multisensory experience. The menu features local offerings infused with elements of modern creativity. 

Contacts: Ristorante Camana Veglia– Via Ostarìa 583, 23041 Livigno – +39 0342 996310

Ristorante Tea Borch 

Tea Borch in Livigno offers a unique winter experience. Originally shepherd huts turned dining spots on the ski slopes, they provide a memorable dinner adventure. To dine, reservations are required, and guests are picked up on a snowmobile, enjoying an exhilarating evening ride with a view of the village lights. The menu features simple yet satisfying options like pizzoccheri and meats. After dinner, the atmosphere transforms into a lively party where people of all nationalities come together to dance. An iconic element is the "grolla dell'amicizia," a wooden container with various spouts. Prices are quite reasonable. 

Contacts: Ristorante Tea Borch – Via Tea dal Pel, 23041 Livigno SO, Italy – +39 348 393 7191

Ristorante La Piöda 

Authentic Livigno Restaurant. This charming and rustic establishment offers a warm and inviting atmosphere. Indulge in local specialties such as Valtellinese-style pizzoccheri, game meats, porcini mushrooms, and meats cooked in the Piöda tradition. 

Contacts: Ristorante La Piöda – Via Saroch, 604, 23041 Livigno SO, Italy – +39 0342 997610

Ristorante Alpino 

Alpino Lodge's menu encompasses a variety of traditional Valtellinese dishes such as sciatt, pizzoccheri, and salmì, alongside delightful national and international options. Catering to diverse dietary preferences, they offer choices for those with gluten sensitivity, as well as options for vegans and vegetarians. 

At lunchtime, you can indulge in a quick meal between activities, choosing from a broad selection of hamburgers, hearty salads, and sandwiches. For those seeking a more adventurous option, there's the opportunity to try oysters on the snow! Alpino Lodge provides the perfect setting for a slopeside dining experience, allowing skiers to refresh with table service at the only mountain restaurant in the area. 

Contacts: Alpino Lodge – Via, SS301, 23041 Livigno SO, Italy – +39 0342 979132